A Sentimental Journey

Today I’m feeling a bit sappy and sentimental, please bear with me!

I do not know about you but I do not have a lot of my own childhood toys left. I guess that it is normal, since once we have ‘outgrown’ our toys they get passed on to younger ones to enjoy, except for the few we cannot bear to part with. I yet have to gather the courage to give away the first batch of my daughter’s outgrown toys, somehow it is really hard. It is a bit embarrassing that I seem more attached to them than she is. Coming back to my own toys, I wish my Mother would not have given away my Barbies (clothes, accessories and all) WITHOUT MY KNOWLEDGE (this is where I am still a bit bitter) when I was about 14. One day I came home from school and they were gone, given to a four year old – who certainly did not take care of my treasure as I had done. “You weren’t playing with them after all.” Well, I hadn’t but given the choice I would have liked to keep them!

Anyways, you might wonder how all of this relates to my usual blog posts which have a common theme: knitting. Let me tell you:

I have managed to hold on to something else, something I got when I was about 11 or 12 and which was one of the ‘it’-toys in the early 80′s in Germany. They are still around, I think, but then “Mon Chichi” were a novelty and a coveted plaything. Now, it is not the doll itself I’m so fond of, it is the clothes my mother – and later on myself – made for them. Hers are way more sophisticated than what I concocted, but I look them now and think back in fondness at the time spent producing something – without help, I might add – that actually could pass as a garment and was used in endless hours of pretend play. I think at sometime my Mon Chichi was the owner of what could pass as a haberdashery or maybe yarn store, with bolts of fabric, yarn and embroidery thread and all. My sister would come in and “place an order” and then I’d be busy making clothes, sewing, knitting and crocheting away.

Have a look:

My Mom’s work – complete with a sleeping sack and a doll for the ‘baby’.

Yes, indeed, there are beads on the little sweater!

An outfit complete with little booties and bib in crochet.

With horror I have discovered what seem to be moth holes in two of the outfits.

Now, remember, I was about 11 or 12 when I made the following:

The orange thing seems to be a bathing suit of a kind, then a top and a hat.

My work – no holes due to acrylic content…some of it needs blocking!  Mark the bag and hankerchief.

Yes, the white dress has lace sewn on.

This shows an attention to detail that even surprised me: a crocheted edge on the hanky which I found hidden in the skirt pocket and is about a 1.5 inch square

Thank you for going on this sentimental journey with me – I can’t wait for the time when my daughter is ready to play with these and maybe even make some new clothes herself.

- Mona

From all angles – decreases; part 3

Double decreases

Sometimes a pattern will ask you to decrease two stitches at a time with a double decrease. Most often it happens in lace patterns, but there are some garment patterns that include double decreases. In any case, it is good to know how to work them.

I have not yet stumbled upon a pattern that asked to do double decreases from the WS (though I suppose they could be out there), every decrease shown is worked on the RS.

K3tog – knit 3 together

A double decrease worked by knitting 3 stitches together, just as the name says. The result are three stitches ‘piling up’, with the stitch on the left on top.

Inserting your needle into 3 stitches at once can prove tricky. As with everything, practice makes perfect!

K3tog

S1, k2tog, psso – Slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (the just knitted one, of course)

Slip 1 stitch knitwise*

Knit 2 stitches together.

Slip first stitch over stitch just knit.

Right stitch on top.

This results in a decrease where the first stitch (on the right) rests on top, the middle stitch is hidden under the two stitches leaning in from left and right. This decrease is often used in lace patterns, though not solely.

S2kwise, k1, p2sso or psso – Slip 2 knitwise (two stitches together, this is important), knit next stitch, pass two slipped stitches over stitch just knitted.

Slip 2 stitches knitwise*

Knit next stitch.

Pass slipped stitches over stitch just knitted.

Middle stitch on top.

This is also called ‘center double decrease’ because the the middle stitch lies on top. The two stitches left and right lean towards the middle stitch, but are hidden under it. This decrease is used in lace and garments – where keeping a stitch in line (the middle stitch) is preferred.

Slight variations of abbreviations/explanations for the latter two described decreases exist, but once you know the most common kind it is easy to deduce what the pattern asks for.

*For these decreases all stitches are slipped knitwise, unless otherwise asked for. If slipped purlwise, the stitches get twisted and you will get a different result.

This concludes my look into decreases – I hope you’ll find it helpful, maybe for one of your next projects?

- Mona

From all angles – decreases; part 2

Last week I talked about single decreases worked on the right side (RS) of your knitting, which is what most patterns ask for. However, once in a while you stumble upon a pattern that makes you work single decreases on the WS. As on the RS you can work right and left slanted decreases.

P2tog = purl 2 together looks exactly like k2tog when examined from the RS. Again, you do exactly that, you purl 2 stitches together.

Insert your needle into two stitches.

Purl them together.

This results in a decrease that looks exactly like k2tog on the RS.

P2tog tbl = purl 2 together through the back loop looks like ssk when examined from the RS. This decrease is not very common, though it is good to know how to do  it.

As for ssk you have to slip your stitches first.

Slip first stitch knitwise.

Slip second stitch knitwise.

Insert your left hand needle from the right into these two stiches and transfer like this from right hand needle to left hand needle.

Purl the 2 stitches together.

This results in a decrease that looks exactly like ssk on the RS.

There. You are all set for single decreases on both sides of your knitting. Come back for more info on double decreases next week!

- Mona

From all angles – decreases; part 1

Today I am going to tell you about single decreases. Meaning: how to get one stitch less in your knitting. Decreases are mostly needed when knitting a sweater, lace or any project that involves shaping at all.

Decreases can be worked on the Right Side (RS) or the Wrong Side (WS) of your knitting, most commonly they are done on the RS. There are, however, some lace patterns where it is necessary to decrease on the wrong side, so it is good to know how to do those, too.

Most common is k2tog = knit 2 together. When doing a k2tog, you do exactly that, you knit 2 stitches together to make one.

Insert your needle into two stitches as if to knit, knit them together.

The resulting decrease slants to the right, meaning the second stitch sits on top of the first to the right.  This is important when you want to mirror decreases, especially when working lace, or, for example, knitting a sock gusset and toe.

K2tog

The mirror decrease to k2tog is ssk = slip, slip, knit (through the back loop) or sl1, k1, psso = slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. The second form is usually found in British or European patterns, though it is exactly the same as ssk. There are variations to be found, but once you know how, you can switch it up easily.

Slip 1st stitch knitwise

Slip 2nd stitch knitwise

Slip stitches back to left hand needle and insert right hand needle into back loop of both stitches.

Knit them together through the back loop.

Ssk

Ssk slants to the left, meaning the first stitch sits on top of the second to the left.

Look closely and you’ll see how k2tog and ssk mirror each other.

So much for today. Stay tuned to learn about decreases worked on the WS of your project next Monday!

- Mona

Weekend Wrap

Well, almost. I’m not quite finished yet, but I do think it is a neat little project with lots of impact. Knit on BIG needles, with not so big yarn.

12 mm needles, to be exact. The yarn is “Origami” from Berroco, ever since I laid my eyes on this particular colourway I wanted to knit something, I just waited for the right project. On a whim I cast on for the “Weekend Wrap” by cocoknits and this fits the bill. Totally. You might have stumbled across this designer last year, when “Gretel” made an appearance in brown linen, or maybe you have seen me wear my “Maria” – the long sleeved version.

I have to say I feel very tempted to knit another version in “Bonsai” or maybe “Seduce” (also from Berroco) just to see how it would come out…and, after all, you only need 3 or 4 skeins of each. It is a simple design, easy to knit, yet the drapey yarn makes it quite special.

Anyways, I have to leave you now with a WIP picture, since I need to go sit on the couch and finish so I can wear it tomorrow.

TTFN!

- Mona

Sometimes you just have to

I hope you had a relaxing Easter/Passover weekend, with everything good that should be involved!

I’m taking a quick break now from doing my taxes to tell you about my latest project: I knit something last week that even a year ago I wouldn’t have thought I would. (Does that make sense?)

Ever once in a while there is a big hype going on about one or other pattern, hundreds, if not thousands of projects pop up on ravelry in no time at all and everyone just has to make it. I usually refrain from such shivaree, because I like to knit what I like when I like and not because everyone else is.

Last week though I returned to a project that had caught my eye when it was published in knitty and I thought ‘why the heck not?’ I do have the right to change my mind, after all.

So I went (well, not really, I was at work at the store, actually) and bought 9 skeins of Plymouth “Boku” (colour no 6, just in case you are interested) and cast on. Not even a week later I was done, being a bit surprised myself how fast it went. Though I will admit that a certain obsession can take hold if I like a project. It used only 8 of the 9 balls and I find having yarn left over is always a nicer surprise than having to buy more and maybe getting into trouble because you cannot find the right dye-lot or other dilemmas one cannot foresee just because the pattern scrimped on yardage. Anyhow, here is my personal version of “Lanesplitter”:

My dress form Lara usually complains when she has to model knits that are way too big for her, which happens frequently since her bust is a mere 35″ and  I am in a totally different weight class. Don’t even  get me started about her hips…however, I assure you the skirt looks quite good on me, too.

“Boku” is available in many colourways at the store, just in case you’re itching to cast on. Back now to the delight that is doing your taxes…

- Mona

What comes after Finishing?

Nothing, you might say. Not so! Let’s talk about blocking a bit.

Lotte is done. After sewing her up and adding the collar she underwent some steam blocking to make her look even better.

I find it is an important step in making a project look really ‘finished’ – the seams settle, anything that might look a bit puckered eases into usually flat fabric, in short: blocking makes your project look happy.

You do not need to invest in a clothes steamer, a steam iron will do. Some knitted fabrics can be steam ironed directly, others need protection in form of a wet dish towel (which should consist of 100% cotton, or a cotton/linen mix). When in doubt, always use a towel! Wet the towel thoroughly and place on the to be steamed fabric. The iron should be set on cotton and the steam as high as possible. Now place iron gently onto towel, let it sit there for about three seconds, then lift it. Repeat over area that you want to steam. Do not move the iron as you would ironing regularly. If necessary, wet towel again. You might also want to use the steam button on your iron to yet enhance the steam. This is a method that works well for any garment.

Another method – a bit more work intensive – is to soak your project (use a special wash like ‘Soak’, it is no rinse) in tepid water. Depending on the material make sure you do not move a woolen garment too much, do not rub the fabric, just gently swish around. To remove most water, squeeze garment gently. To remove as much water as possible, place on bath towel, roll up and squeeze out water as much as you can. (I sometimes place it on the floor and step on it, that works really well.) To block your garment you will need a flat surface which is suitable to poke needles in – I used to place an old woolen blanket on my bed and cover with an old sheet. It worked but had the disadvantage of having to remove everything at bed time – dry or not. I have bought some puzzle foam mats since, they come in a package of 4, one is 60×60 cm, you can arrange them as you please and need. They are worth the small investment.

Another indispensable tool are blocking pins with an elongated head that hinders the pin from slipping through the knitted fabric. If you want to block a lace shawl, blocking wires are a great addition in the category of ‘helpful tools’. A smaller project might not need to be immersed in water, a spray bottle will do – spray project liberally with water, before or after pinning, that is up to you.

Always wait until the project is thoroughly dry before removing any pins – otherwise the effect of blocking might not be as desired.

- Mona

Better late than never?

Hello there. I forgot to blog today.  Ooops. There is no excuse.  However, I do have something to talk about, believe it or not.

Remember “Lotte”? She is in the finishing stage. I’ve seamed the raglan seams (the pattern is written very well, it went as smoothly as it could) and am knitting the collar. To get a break from doing the short rows of the collar I seamed one of the side seams and sleeves.

I use mattress stitch to seam anything that is knit in pieces. I love how I can watch the pieces come together while seaming, should I be off track I see it right away and can fix it. It is my opinion that there is no other method that looks as clean and well done as seaming with mattress stitch. (Ok, I’m done with gushing now. Have a look for yourself!)

I think that looks pretty great, if I may say so myself. I do like to seam row by row, which can take a long time, but I do love the outcome.

I take in a whole stitch, which makes it quite easy to match the edges together. Whenever I teach mattress stitch in a finishing class, students who have never used it before are amazed. What can I say? I just love it. Do you, too?

- Mona

Cotton, Linen and the like

We have lovely weather here in Montreal today. The sun is out, it is warm – and one is tempted to put away the wooly sweaters for good. Together with the hats, cowls and mittens that have been our trusted companions for the last months. Though I have to admit we have been spoiled this year, it was not as cold, snowy and long as many Winters before.

Knitters are starting to look for the ‘cooler’ fibres, meaning cotton, linen, hemp, silk and anything that does not resemble wool and is not fuzzy. Personally, linen is one of my favourite fabric to wear in summer – next to cotton, of course. Knitting with those fibres can be a bit challenging, one has to think of the different characteristics that make them so special.

Plant based fibres

Cotton  is heavier than wool and it does not have any memory. When you stretch a woolen sweater it will go back to its original shape and size, do that with cotton and you will realize that once stretched it will only go back to its size after it is washed. The looser the knitted fabric, the more ‘expansion’ (to use a technical term) you can expect. What is very important when knitting with cotton is to knit a swatch and wash it before you measure your gauge! Cotton comes in many varieties, some of them have a bit of sheen like Cascade’s Ultra Pima, others are flat, i.e. look like your favourite cotton Tee.

Linen is made of the fibres of the flax plant and can be a bit rigid.  What is wonderful about linen is that each wash makes it softer and more supple. I have antique linen dish towels, they have been washed a lot of times and are as soft as Egyptian cotton by now. Just as with many other fibres, there are  different qualities of linen. The best is the wet spun linen, since wet fibres are stronger than dry ones and once this linen is dry it is pretty much indestructible. The length of the fibre is also important, as with wool the rule is: the longer the fibres, the better the quality of the yarn.

Hemp is made of the fiber variety of the Cannabis plant. As a crop, hemp is environmentally friendly. Like linen it can be a bit rigid but starts to soften as soon as you work with it. We have a pre-softened version at the store to make the knitting experience more enjoyable. It is very durable and hence recommendable for bags, hats and any beach cover-ups that get a lot of handling, as well as clothing, of course!

Animal based fibres

Silk is a natural protein fibre, won from the cocoons of silkworms or caterpillars. It comes in different varieties. Wild silk from the cocoons of caterpillars is not shiny like Mulberry silk from silkworms, and has a particular smell. Mulberry silk is glossy, very supple, yet not stretchy at all. Often silk comes in a mix with other fibres (cotton, wool).

Manmade fibres (yet based on natural materials)

Seasilk is a cellulose based fibre made with Seaweed. It has beautiful sheen, looks indeed a bit like silk and is just as soft. It only comes in combination with wool to give it a bit of body.

Viscose is made from wood pulp (wood cellulose acetate) and hence in the same class as rayon – neither synthetic nor natural. It is soft and supple and often used to make linen yarns less harsh. As a yarn it is rarely found pure.

Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulose fibre. It is neither truly synthetic nor natural, since it doesn’t exist in nature but is made from natural material. Like viscose it is often used as a ‘softener’.

For my part when it comes to Spring/Summer knitting I like to stay with lace, fingering, sport and DK weights. Having said as much, it is up to your personal  preference what weight you go for. Apart from the  pure versions of  the above mentioned natural fibres there are countless combinations with numerous other fibres  (natural or man made) – listing all of them is impossible.  For all of the above I highly recommend washing your swatch – the change in gauge can be a nasty surprise in the finished product, so make sure you check it out before!!

- Mona

Long in the Making

A few years ago I designed a little top for my daughter and called it “Toddler Tee” in the pattern I published. Since then I have gotten quite a few requests to make it up for adult sizes which I did but it took longer than expected to write this pattern. I am finally done and here is the “Grown-up Tee”.

It is available in a large range of sizes, from 29″ to 52.25″ and uses 4-9 skeins of Manos Silk Blend. There are plenty other yarns you could knit it in, it asks for 22 stitches to 4″ which is your essential DK weight gauge.

The tee is great for layering as well as worn on its own, it looks lovely knit up in many textures, be it cotton, linen or wool. Worked in the round it knits up quickly, finishing is limited to two little underarm seams. The lace pattern is of the simpler kind, though the impact is high, as you will easily realize looking at the sample at Espace Tricot. You can buy the pattern in store or right here.

- Mona